One of Latin America’s most energetic metropolises, Buenos Aires today is a city for good times, and late nights. Just bear in mind that 1am is an early kick-off when it comes to Argentinian nightlife, and head for Palermo. Divided into numerous sub-districts, this is the city’s pumping pulse. Palermo Soho is the place for speakeasies and clubs, Palermo Hollywood for burger joints and craft breweries, and Las Cañitas for posher bars. This barrio isn’t the be all and end all, though: Retiro has spawned a hip bar scene, Almagro remains the preferred haunt for tango aficionados, and San Telmo’s Avenue Caseros is a short yet sweet foodie hub. And with the city designated Ibero-American Capital of Gastronomy 2017, the food scene is extending its palate – it’s not all steak.
- WHAT TO SEE: Centro Cultural Kirchner, Espacio Memoria y Derechos Humanos, Museo de Arte Moderno de Buenos Aires (Mamba), Free walking tours
- WHERE TO EAT: Percha, Proper, Pulpería Quilapán, Aramburu Bis, Rita Restaurante, Parrilla Secretito
- WHERE TO DRINK: Café San Bernardo, M Salumería & Enoteca, CSJ La Vermutería, Negro Cueva de Café, La Calle
- WHERE TO STAY: Querido, Home Hotel, Tango de Mayo, La Querencia B&B
Built in 1714 and having survived four yellow fever epidemics in the 1800s, this casa chorizo – long, thin Argentina houses, named for their sausage shape – was recently saved from demolition. Taking inspiration from a rural pulpería – grocery store – to sell organic produce, Quilapán specialises in hearty fare such as buffalo milk cheese provoleta, and wild boar slow-roasted for 14 hours in Buenos Aires’ largest clay oven. House wine is served in a classic penguin jug, and the decor features football flags and disused street signs. Fancy a digéstif? Ask waiters Luis or Antonio for the password, then weave through the warren-like establishment to unearth the clandestine patio bar, adorned with jasmine.
• Defensa 1344, San Telmo, +54 11 4307 6288, pulperiaquilapan.com